The word Julep is an old and honored one and can be traced as far back as A. D. 1400—long before we ever heard of the Southern States of these United States, where the julep is popularly supposed to be indigenous.

For centuries the julep has been described as "something to cool or assuage the heat of passion," and "a sweet drink prepared in different ways." We know nothing of the first definition but will confirm the second statement that it can be made in different ways.

The earliest form of the word was iulep. Arabs called it julab, the Portuguese julepe, the Italians giulebbe, Latins named it julapium, Persians, gul-ab, meaning "rose water." The Greeks, alas, did not have a word for it! Julep, as we spell it, is French. All this being settled, let us get on with our juleping.

Don't use rye whiskey in making a julep. If you do use whiskey let it be Bourbon, which serves its highest purpose when it becomes a component part of that prince of all thirst-quenchers known as the Mint Julep. There are many kinds of mint juleps, one for nearly every Southern State—such as Ken­tucky, Georgia, Virginia, Maryland, Louisiana juleps. We give several of the most popular recipes.

"The first thing he did upon getting out of bed was to callfor a Julep and I date my own love for whiskey from mixing and tasting my young master's juleps." 180i.

Mint Julep

1 teaspoon sugar

1 dozen mint leaves

1 jigger Bourbon whiskey

1 pony rum

Put the mint leaves into a tall glass in which the julep is to be served. Add the sugar and crush in a little water. Four in the Bourbon whiskey, then the rum, and fill the glass with shaved ice. Jiggle the mixture with a long-handled spoon (do not stir) until the outside of the glass or metal goblet is heavily frosted. Arrange a bouquet of several sprigs of mint on top just before handing to the recipient, who will ever after bless you.

Naturally, one is aware that he takes his life in his hands by even suggesting the way a real mint julep should be prepared, for there are as many recipes for this truly Southern drink as there are southern states in the Union.

Julep experts—may their tribe never decrease!— know that correct and authentic recipes take on changes in passing from one state to another. South­ern colonels, to say nothing of majors, captains, and buck privates, have been known to call for pistols under the duelling oaks when it is even hinted that mint leaves be crushed in preparing a julep. Other colonels, majors, etc., emit fire and brimstone, and a Bourbon-laden breath, if the pungent leaves are not crushed in the bottom of the glass and a bouquet of short-to-measure sprigs placed on top in which to snuggle the nose while the nectar is being withdrawn with a reverent, albeit, audible sucking through a straw.

There is also a difference of opinion concerning the variety of spirits that go into the making. In the recipe above the pony of rum may be added or subtracted—it all depends on your drinking mathematics. Rum, however, gives added zest to a regula­tion whiskey julep.

The one thing upon which the two mint julep schools are fully agreed is this: it was a julep the two Carolina governors had in mind when making their celebrated observation regarding the length of time between drinks.

Kentucky Mint Julep

1 lump sugar

? sprigs of mint leaves

? jiggers Bourbon whiskey

Note the absence of the amount of Bourbon to be used—that's' important in a julep, no matter from what state it comes. All that is lacking in the above recipe is the shaved ice which must go into the glass or metal goblet in which the julep is compounded.

While Georgia may be able to make good the boast that the mint julep originated within her borders, there appears to be no successful refutation of Ken­tucky's claim that the Blue Grass State popularized the famous drink. However divided opinion as to whether mint leaves should be crushed or merely dunked, one thing is certain—no Kentucky gentle­man, far less a Kentucky colonel, would ever sanc­tion a recipe which placed limitations on the amount of Bourbon that goes into the making.

Nor will we here entangle ourselves in the age-long controversy—should a julep be sucked through a straw or drunk from the container? Kentuckians vociferously maintain that the use of a straw ruins a julep. We have tried Kentucky julep with a straw and without—both work!

On one of his many visits to New Orleans "Marse Henry" Watterson, one-time beloved editor of the Louisville Courier-Journal, told a young newspaperreporter his recipe for a real Kentucky mint julep.

"Take a silver goblet, son, one that will hold at least a pint, and dissolve a lump of loaf sugar in it with not more than a tablespoon of water. Take one mint leaf, no more, and crush it gently between the thumb and forefinger before dropping it into the dissolved sugar. Then fill the goblet nearly to the brim with shaved ice. Pour into it all the Bourbon whiskey the goblet will hold. Take a few sprigs of mint leaves and use for decorating the top of the mixture, after it has been well frapped with a spoon. Then drink it. But," warned Marse Henry, "do not use a straw, son."

I know that this was Marse Henry's version of a real Kentucky mint julep, for I was the young—and thirsty—newspaper reporter.

Georgia Mint Julep

1 teaspoon powdered sugar

1 pony cognac brandy

1 pony peach brandy

sprigs of tender mint shoots

Use the goblet in which the julep is to be served. Place some of the mint leaves at the bottom, with the sugar and a little water, and muddle or bruise the leaves. Add the cognac and peach brandy. Fill the goblet with finely crushed ice. Jiggle with the long-handled barspoon until well frapped.

Jiggling is not "stirring." Stirring calls for a rotary motion, but "jiggling" is dashing the spoon up and down steadily until the outside of the goblet is frosted. Place the metal or glass container on a table to do your jiggling—do not hold the glass for heat of the hand will hinder frost from forming on the outside. When the julep has been thoroughly jiggled, thrust in a bunch of the tenderest mint shoots arranged to simulate a bouquet.

This julep is to be absorbed with a straw, a short one so that the drinker's nose is buried in the very heart of the green nosegay as he drinks, thus adding the delight of aroma to the delight of taste.

San Domingo Julep

1 piece of loaf sugar 1½jigger rum sprigs of mint

Into a tall glass (preferably a metal goblet) drop the sugar and moisten with a little water. Take several mint leaves and crush while the sugar is being muddled with the barspoon. Pill with shaved or finely crushed ice. Pour in the rum. Jiggle to frappe the mixture. Set a bouquet of mint leaves on top before serving. A slice of orange peel for garnish is ritzy but not strictly necessary.

This seems to be the original mint julep that came to Louisiana away back in 1793, at the time the white aristocrats, who were expelled from San Domingo by the uprising of the blacks, settled in New Orleans. In the United States, especially those states south of the Mason and Dixon line, Bourbon whiskey grad­ually took the place of sugar cane rum as the spirit of the drink.

Many advocate the use of both red whiskey and rum in making a julep, but if you wish to quaff the original San Domingo julep use rum alone. Any of the well-known imported or domestic brands will do, such as Bacardi, Cabildo, Carioca, Pontalba, Rum-rico, Charleston, Don Q., Puerto Rico, Jamaica, St. Croix, Red Heart, or Pilgrim.

Brandy Mint Julep

1 spoon powdered sugar

1 pony Bourbon whiskey

1 pony peach brandy

sprigs of mint leaves

Mix as directed for the juleps in preceding pages. Use plenty of crushed ice and frappe with the long-handled barspoon.

It is rank heresy even to mention it, but some Georgia julep experts make theirs by substituting Bourbon whiskey for cognac brandy. Whichever you use, the Bourbon or brandy, remember that quicker and prettier frosting will result if you use a silver or other metal goblet rather than glass. The outside of the container must be kept dry if it is to take on a good frost, so do not hold it in your hand when jiggling.

St. Regis Mint Julep

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon water

1 dozen mint leaves

1 jigger rye whiskey ½ pony rum

1 dash grenadine sirup

Into a tall glass crush the mint leaves with a barspoon. Dissolve the sugar in water and stir. Pour in the whiskey and rum, then the grenadine sirup. Fill the glass with crushed ice and jiggle with the spoon. When properly frap­ped decorate the top with sprigs of mint.

This recipe departs in two ways from the usual . . . the use of rye for Bourbon and the introduction of grenadine sirup. In spite of its straying from the neither straight nor narrow path of Bourbon, this julep is exceedingly good on a hot day, or any day,for that matter. It is the julep that is served at the St. Regis Restaurant bar and is the pride of head-bartender John Swago.

Louisiana Mint Julep

1 teaspoon powdered sugar 1½jigger Bourbon whiskey

sprigs of mint crushed ice

Put a dozen leaves of mint in a barglass, cover with powdered sugar and just enough water to dissolve the sugar. Crush sugar and mint leaves gently with a muddler or barspoon. Pour half the mint and sugar liquid in the bottom of the tall glass in which the julep is to be served. Then enough shaved or snowball ice to half fill. Next add the remaining mint and sugar liquid, fill nearly to the top with shaved ice. Pour in the Bourbon until the glass is full to the brim. Place in the refrigerator at least an hour before serving to acquire ripeness and frost. Top with mint sprigs.

Time was when the mint julep was strictly a sym­bol of the South—a green and silver emblem of Dixie's friendly leisure. But today the mint julep, that most glorious of summer drinks, is becoming as popular above the Mason and Dixon line as below it.

Some term the Louisiana julep the last word in perfection, so if you have the feeling you haven't sampled a real julep, try the above. If you are still in doubt and are willing to go to some trouble, try the one below.

New Orleans Mint Julep

Put the glasses or the metal goblets in the refri­gerator the night before you are to serve juleps. This is a high-powered julep so you'll need two jig­gers of Bourbon for every glass. In the serving glass drop a layer of mint leaves, fill one-quarter full with shaved or snowball ice, then one teaspoon of powdered sugar. Repeat until the glass is half full. Add one jigger of Bourbon. Repeat until the glass is full, the second jigger of Bourbon being the last to go into the glass. Serve on a tray with a straw or tube in each goblet so that hand does not touch the container, which is frosted white.

"Thy secret pleasure turns to open shame, thy sugred tongue to bitter wormwood taste." Shakespeare's Lucrece. 1593.

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